Sunday, December 28, 2008

in the Sounds

The Wilds of NZ are not very conducive for blogging. Since the last post, I've been on the Hollyford track and am now in the Marlborough Sounds walking parts of Queen Charlotte Track. Weather is good here, but the track gets a bit monotonous. I'm moving to Portage today and hope the views from the ridge will be better... I was in Furneaux Lodge for the last 3 nights and I think it's more cozy there. It's a bit large and commercial here. It's wonderfully scenic though. Will get on the track tomorrow.
Since the last entry, I've been on the Hollyford Track on a 3 day guided walk. There were 14 of us on the walk, and Bard, the main guide was superb. He is a native of Fiordland (Te Anau) and loves the area. He showed us many native plants and told us fascinating stories of the pioneers in this area. It is just too inhospitable for human habitation, so all plans to develop a township fell through. There are some priceless publications by alice mackenzie who gives first-hand accounts of her life in this area. Her parents were from Scotland/Ireland and she and her siblings were home-schooled.
Anyway, we were not at all subject to the hardships of the pioneers. A bus delivered us to the start of the track and there, in the damp weather, we put on our packs and walked the 17km to Pyke Lodge. It was not a route march. Bard had warned us that we only needed to bring one change of clothing. The whole track was practically flat, we stopped often to look at the flora and also chatted with our new-found companions,. We climbed up to a small pass (168m!) and then were allowed to walk at our own pace.Unfortunately one of the walkers slipped, fell ,and broke her wrist. The guides and a massage therapist, who happened to be one of the walkers helped her to the night's lodging.
The next day it was pouring. "wakey, wakey!" said Bard at 6.45am. "It's a beautiful day.You'll love it!"
The luxury for the day was to have Sean drive us in his jetboat up Lake Mckerrow.It was very muddy on the track and we had several streams to cross. In the end I gave up trying keep my feet dry. Gaithers are the way to go...next time! we ended the day on a Beach at Martin's Bay. Most people continued on to see the seals, but I had had enough for the day. I fed my feet to the sandflies in a moment of forgetfulness! A warm dry Martin's Bay Lodge was very welcome, and dinner was sumptious, with a glorious sunset added to the menu.
The last day was as sunny and beautiful as it can get around here. We walked on the windy grass-tufted dunes, gathered manuka shoots for tea (very fragrant), and took a long walk to the end of the beach if we wanted. the Japanese ladies and I opted to go back to the lodge in the jet boat. The day ended with a magnificent flight in a Cessna along the coast to Milford Sound. I have cruised the Sound so many times, but this was the best weather I've ever experienced there.
Back to civilisation, I stay in Te Anau for a night, resolving to come back for more short walks in the area. I spent 3 days in Queenstown, where the weather had cleared up, after a fall of snow on the Remarkables over the weekend.
Christmas Day found me in Christchurch where I attended the Festal evensong in the Cathedral. Music was beautiful, and so was the worship.
I caught a bus to Picton on Boxing Day and then one of only 2 taxis in town to the wharf. I was just in time to catch the afternoon ferry to Furneaux Lodge where a large group of day walkers had just come off the track and were heading back to town.
I have just uploaded all these photos thanks to wireless connection from my room at the Portage Resort on Keneuru Sound. here's the view from my room.

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Christmas 2008 in New Zealand

It's my last trip for my sabbatical year and it's starting in a rather wet Queenstown, where I'm taking it easy, recuperating from the hectic tour to Israel 2 weeks ago. Am quite recovered from the cold that I caught while there.
2 of my favorite eating places in town have gone with the redevelopment of 3 buildings on Beach Street, so have to hunt for some among the new outlets which have sprung up. It's like coming to a new town!
Will be going on a guided walk on the Hollyford track this weekend, spend Christmas in Queenstown/Christchurch and then the rest of the year on the Queen Charlotte Track. Should be good if it doesn't rain!